Now, turn around and see the view behind you. Do you see a panoramic view of Naksan Fortress Trail and Dongdaemun Gate to the south? Then you’ve come to the right place. The path that we took is called ‘Changsin-dong Cliff Alley’.

The name Cliff Alley comes from the site that is north of you. Do you see that steep and hideous cliff cut on the side of Sungin-dong's Dongmangbong Peak? It’s the remains of a granite mine that was operating during the Japanese colonial rule. Naksan Mountain which we climbed up just then, also has a cliff where granite was cut off on the side of Dongmangbong Peak.

In 1910, the Japanese Empire robbed Joseon of its sovereignty and established a plan to build a new building for the Japanese Government-General of Korea. Perhaps they thought the Japanese Government-General of Korea building was too small for them. The new gargantuan building of the Japanese Government-General of Korea was built in the Western style within Gyeongbukgung Palace, a Joseon Dynasty palace, to emphasize the dignity of Japan. To make this building, larch timber was taken from Amnokgang River, marbles from Gyeonggi-do and Hwanghae-do provinces, sand and gravels from Hangang River, and 200,000 slates of granite were used. This is where that granite was taken from.

In 1924, this quarry was designated as the quarry directly operated by Keijō Municipal Council, which is equivalent to the present-day Seoul, during the Japanese colonial rule, and granite rocks were harvested with daily explosions. In 1926, during the Japanese colonial rule, the Japanese Government General of Korea office was completed. The Bank of Joseon, which is the central bank established by Japan to exploit Korea and the continental economy, Seoul Station, and Keijō Municipal Council office, were built with granite taken from here.

The quarry at Changsin-dong and Sungin-dong operated for some time into the liberation of Korea. Then, it was closed in 1960, and people scurried to the cliff and built housing, creating the village that we see now. That place is called the cut village or cliff village.

Not many people know that such evidence of Japanese exploitation remains in Jongno, in the heart of Seoul. More still do not know that a lot of people lived precarious lives in makeshift housing by a cliff.

Looking at these two very different views makes me think of so many things. The remains of a quarry, and high-rise buildings on the other side of it. I believe that both are the views of the present-day Jongno and Seoul.

Next, we’re going to Changsin Elementary School, which is by the lower road. Go back down the way you came up here, and you’ll see ‘Jongno-gu Social Welfare Center’ on the left.

Take the path in front of it and go all the way down to the main road, and you’ll find Changsin Elementary School. It’s a narrow road that goes up and down. Don’t forget to walk down slowly and carefully.

See the wall next to the main gate of Changsin Elementary School, and you’ll find a signboard that says ‘Wonheungsa Temple Site’. Let’s continue when we get there.