Welcome to the K-Culture Tour! Today’s journey takes us to “Gyeongju’s Oksan Seowon,” a place rich with Joseon Dynasty tradition and the spirit of scholarship.
Located in Angang-eup, Gyeongju, Oksan Seowon is a prominent Confucian academy from the Joseon Dynasty. Founded in 1572 to honor the virtues and teachings of Neo-Confucian scholar Yi Eon-jeok, it received official royal recognition just a year later, becoming a “Royally Chartered Confucian Academy” supported by the king.
As you pass through the main gate, Yeokrakmun, the first building you encounter is Mubyeonru, meaning "endless pavilion." This pavilion served as a resting place for Confucian scholars. Its signboard is famous for the calligraphy of the renowned master Han Seok-bong, also known as Seokbong Han Ho. Opposite Mubyeonru is Guindang, the hall where lectures and discussions were held, which also displays a plaque bearing Han Ho’s calligraphy.
Next to Guindang are Dongjae(Mingujae) and Seojae(Amsujae), dormitories for the scholars. Behind Guindang, beyond the Chein Gate, stands the Cheinmyo Shrine, which houses the spirit tablet of Yi Eon-jeok. The term “Chein” means “putting virtuous and kind hearts into action,” symbolizing Yi Eon-jeok’s philosophy of practice. The buildings to the right of Dongjae(Mingujae) are administrative buildings, and behind them stands Munjippangak, which preserved the woodblocks created by the seowon.
Oksan Seowon is one of the 47 seowon that survived the abolition decree of such academies during the late Joseon period under Heungseon Daewongun. Its value was reaffirmed in 2019 when it was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site as part of the “Korean Seowon.” This sacred and dignified site also served as the setting for the drama Under the Queen’s Umbrella, which depicts the queen’s fierce struggle within the palace over royal education.
Im Hwa-ryeong (Queen): “Next time, you will have to go through every single formality.”
Hwang Won-hyeong (Prime Minister): “If I go through said formality, are you willing to be questioned yourself, Your Majesty?”
Im Hwa-ryeong (Queen): “Certainly. If I am responsible for something, then I shall accept the request. However, if anyone tries to frame me, I don’t care who it is, I will gnaw on them and slowly finish their last breath.”
This scene, set here, shows the Queen standing resolutely against the Prime Minister’s attempt to accuse Lady Sin of causing the Crown Prince’s death. Her cold and unwavering demeanor perfectly embodies the dignity of a Joseon queen.
As the wind drifts gently over the tiled roofs and time passes quietly beneath the trees, the reflections of the Josun era still linger throughout Oksan Suhwon. Take a leisurely stroll today, and let the enduring wisdom and serene dignity of this place touch your heart.
As the wind flows gently between the tiled roofs and time quietly passes under the shade of the trees, the contemplations of the Joseon era still quietly resonate throughout Oksan Seowon. Take a leisurely stroll today, and let the enduring wisdom and serene dignity of this place softly touch your heart.
Oksan Seowon, Gyeongju: Where Contemplation and Dignity Abide
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