Gyeongju Gyochon Village
Gyeongsangbuk-do Gyeongju-si
[Woman]
I’m planning a trip to Gyeongju. Do you have any places that I absolutely should not miss?
[Man]
Right...you’re looking for some recommendations. Let me think for a bit. Hey, what comes to your mind when you think of a trip to Gyeongju?
[Woman]
When it comes to Gyeongju, I know that it has Seokguram, Bulguksa Temple, and a lot of other heritage sites.
[Man]
You’re right. Gyeongju does have plenty of heritage sites with significant historical value. If you plan your trip to Gyeongju as a historical tour, it might be a little more fulfilling. What kind of city do you think Gyeongju is?
[Woman]
More than anything else, Gyeongju is a city of aristocrats.
[Man]
That is correct. But did you know that Gyeongju is a city of romance? (Pause) Did you know?
[Woman]
Don’t be ridiculous. Gyeongju and romance don’t seem to match.
[Man]
No, they actually do match! Gyeongju is home to a surprising number of historical and romantic sites.If you're dreaming of a sweet and romantic experience like the flowers fluttering in the spring breeze, follow me to the Gyochon Village in Gyeongju.
Introduce Gyochon Village and its ties to Shilla
[Man]
Gyochon Village in Gyeongju was home to “Gukhak,” the first national university of Shilla built during the reign of King Sinmun. Gukhak of Shilla, later on, became Hyanghak in Goryeo, and Hyanggyo during the Joseon Dynasty. The reason why the village is called “Gyo-dong,” “Gyochon” or “Gyo-ri” is because it has a Hyanggyo inside the village.
[Woman]
In other words, Gyochon Village in Gyeongju was like the eight competitive school districts in Seoul. But their roots go back to Shilla, not Joseon. That’s amazing.
[Man]
That’s right. A few years ago, Gyeongju, Ulsan, and Pohang joined forces under the “Sunrise Alliance” to carry on the legacy of Shilla which was built across a thousand years. Historically, Ulsan and Pohang used to protect Seorabeol and the kingdom against Japanese pirates looking to raid the country through the sea. Thanks to their dedication, Shilla was able to unify the three kingdoms and survive for a thousand years despite being the smallest country in the region.
[Woman]
Wait a minute. Now I’ve come to think about it, I have never heard of a royal palace or palatial ruins belonging to Shilla, despite the fact that the kingdom went on for a thousand years.
[Man]
Oh.. I suppose that’s true. Where did you go on your school excursions?
[Woman]
My school excursions...they were such a long time ago...I think I went to Gyeongju when I was in high school.
[Man]
Well then, you would have seen the palatial ruins that belonged to Shilla..
Gyeongju Travel Spot 1: Wolseong District
[Man]
Do you see that hill with all the trees next to Cheomseongdae Observatory? That’s Wolseong District. It’s the place where all the royal palaces were during the Shilla Dynasty. In other words, it was the center of Gyeongju back then. Thanks to its historical value, the district has been designated as Historic Site No. 16. The name “Wolseong” comes from the fact that the palace site is shaped like a half-moon. That is why the district is also known as “Banwolseong (half-moon palace).”
[Woman]
I thought the palatial ruins of Shilla would feature some grand palaces. But I don’t seem to see any.
[Man]
You’re right. Unfortunately, we only have the foundations today. At first, the palaces were built near Changnimsa Temple Site, right underneath Namsan Mountain. During the reign of King Pasa (the 5th monarch of Shilla), the palaces were relocated here.
[Woman]
What a pity. It would've been so great to see the palaces today.
[Man]
Don’t worry. I’ll take you to an even better place.Now, you might be able to see a long forest stretching north from Wolseong.That forest is called “Gyelim.”
[Woman]
Wow. It’s such a dense forest. I feel like all the fine dust would be filtered away there.
[Man]
Although it might look like an ordinary forest, it is an extremely important place. Gyelim is where Kim Al-ji was born. Kim Al-ji was the man who created the Kim clan, a powerful family that was famous for producing the largest number of monarchs during the Shilla Dynasty.
[Woman]
Kim Al-ji? Even his name seems special. I bet there’s a story about his name.
[Man]
You’re quick, aren’t you? The story behind Kim Al-ji’s name can be found in the History of the Three Kingdoms. One day, a bright light began pulsating in Gyelim.So, a man went to check the light source. There, he discovered a handsome baby boy inside a golden chest. Since then, people started calling the forest “Gyelim.” With regards to the boy, he came from a golden (“geum”) chest, so people gave him a surname that sounded similar: “Gim (later on Kim).”
[Woman]
You know, people who appear in these legends become king. Did he become a king?
[Man]
It seems a lot of them do. But Kim Al-ji himself did not become king.It was his great-great-great-great-grandson that became a member of the Kim clan that became the monarch of Shilla (King Michu).Starting with King Michu, the Kim family produced a staggering 38 monarchs for the Shilla Dynasty.
[Woman]
38 monarchs? My god! They must have been an extremely powerful royal family.
[Man]
They guarded Gyelim as a sacred place and banned anyone from cutting down any trees from the forest.
[Woman]
Now that I’ve learned the history behind Gyelim, it feels a little scary.
[Man]
Okay. I’ll show you a place that is a little more romantic. Shall we go?
Gyeongju Travel Spot 2: The love nest for Wonhyo and Princess Yoseok - Yoseokgung Palace
[Woman]
Wow. A romantic spot in Gyeongju. I’m so curious.
[Man]
The place I’m talking about is the Yoseokgung Palace, which is home to the beautiful love story between Wonhyo and Princess Yoseok.
The story goes like this. King Muyeol of Shilla had a daughter, Princess Yoseok.
But during a battle against Baekje, Princess Yoseok lost her husband. King Muyeol was sad to see his daughter heartbroken. After all, he was as much of a father as he was the king of his country. According to court rules, he could not move his widowed daughter back into the royal palace, so he had her live in a palace near Wolseong Yoseokgung Palace.
[Woman]
Doesn’t Yoseokgung Palace have something to do with Wonhyo, the Buddhist monk?
[Man]
You’re absolutely right. This is where the love affair between Wonhyo and Princess Yoseok began.
[Woman]
A romantic love affair between a monk and a princess. That’s exciting.
[Man]
There’s a song that Wonhyo supposedly sang for the princess. Shall we take a listen?
[Wonhyo]
“Someone give me an ax without a handle. I’ll make a column that props up the heavens. Using that ax without a handle, I plan to make a column that props up the heavens.”
[Woman]
Those lyrics aren’t romantic at all!
[Man]
You’ll feel different if you dig a little deeper into the meaning of those lyrics. Here, an ‘ax without a handle’ means the widowed Princess Yoseok, and the ‘column that props up the heavens’ means a great person that will help the kingdom thrive.
[Woman]
I see..… now it seems that way. I want to know more about Wonhyo!
[Man]
Wonhyo established some of the key philosophies of Buddhism in Korea such as “Ilcheyushimjo (everything depends on the mind)” and “Hwajaengsasang (principle of harmony).” At the time, Buddhism was the official religion of the kingdom. Nevertheless, common people did not understand the religion all that well. Wonhyo popularized Buddhism among the masses.
[Woman]
I can’t believe such a prominent monk would fall in love with a woman and serenade her like that.
[Man]
‘Someone give me an ax without a handle.I’ll make a column that props up the heavens.’
You too? You don’t have to. It’s no wonder Princess Yoseok fell for a man who serenaded her with a special love song. How did they meet?
According to history, Wonhyo always looked like a beggar.Despite his appearances, the royal family and Buddhist worshipers recognized him and invited him to lead a Buddhist ceremony.
[Woman]
Then, did Princess Yoseok fall in love at first sight with Wonhyo at the royal Buddhist ceremony?
[Man]
That’s right. It was rare for a monk to appear at a royal Buddhist ceremony. Princess Yoseok saw how honest Wonhyo was, and fell immediately in love. Soon, she became lovesick. When King Muyeol saw his daughter suffering, he summoned Wonhyo into the palace.
[Woman]
I assume Wonhyo, the beggar that he is, didn’t comply with the King’s request so easily?
[Man]
You’re right. When he saw the court officials approach with the king’s decree, Wonhyo fell into Muncheongyo. He used his wet clothes as an excuse to step into Yoseokgung Palace where Princess Yoseok was staying, instead of the royal palace where King Muyeol was waiting for him.
[Woman]
They were so deeply in love, the entire area around Yoseokgung Palace supposedly smelled like flowers for a while. But unfortunately, their love didn’t last.
[Woman]
Why not?
[Man]
After a while, Wonhyo had to leave.He broke the rules as a Buddhist monk, so he put his Buddhist robe away and became a commoner. 10 months after Wonhyo left, Princess Yoseok gave birth to a boy. That boy grew up to be Seolchong, the genius scholar who invented Idu script.As his lyrics said, Wonhyo helped bring a ‘column to prop up the heavens’ into this world.
[Woman]
Wow. Love stories are always so interesting I think I should call Gyeongju the city of love.
Gyeongju Travel Spot 3: The love nest for Wonhyo and Princess Yoseok - Woljeonggyo Bridge
[Man]
Hey Suji, did you know that Woljeonggyo Bridge has become a popular place for couples when they go on a date?
[Woman]
I’ve heard that the view from Woljeonggyo Bridge is magnificent!
[Man]
In the evening, the soft lights come on, and create a romantic ambiance. If you get a chance, visit Woljeonggyo Bridge at night!
Gyeongju Travel Spot 4: Gyeongju Hyanggyo and Old Family House of the Choi Clan
[Man]
We’ve seen Woljeonggyo Bridge. So now, it’s time to head over to the Gyochon Village in Gyeongju. Can you guess why Gyochon Village is also known as “Gyo-dong” or “Gyochon”?
[Woman]
That’s because it has a Hyanggyo inside the village!
[Man]
You remembered.As I mentioned earlier, Gyochon Village in Gyeongju was home to Gukhak, the first national university in Korea built during the reign of King Sinmun.Gukhak evolved into Hyanghak during the Goryeo Dynasty, and eventually into Hyanggyo during the Joseon Dynasty. Naturally, people created an aristocratic village nearby.
[Woman]
That’s why the village was created. Their legacy carries on to this day. I thought the village was simply a collection of traditional Hanok homes that belonged to aristocratic families. Now that I know the reason why it was created, the village seems more dignified.
[Man]
At the time, Gyochon Village had houses with blue tiled roofs and refined scholars. So, most people wanted to move into the village.
[Woman]
I think I can hear some aristocrat calling out at the door, “Is there anyone at home?”
[Man]
Haha... Gyochon Village has several old houses that belonged to the Choi clan. It has a great environment to see what Gyeongju looked like culture-wise during the Joseon Dynasty.One of the reasons why Gyochon Village become so famous is because it had the Choi family mansion. Supposedly the Choi family was the richest family in all of Joseon.
[Woman]
I’ve heard of the mansion before! The Choi family mansion! It’s the family that was extremely charitable to other poor neighbors. Right?
[Man]
You’re so smart!
Throughout the family’s 400-year history, the Choi clan produced court officials for eight generations and remained one of the richest families for 12 generations. They were the wealthiest family during the Joseon Dynasty.There’s another story I want to add to the list of good deeds they did for the community. Whenever the country suffered from a poor harvest, the Choi family did not eat rice. either. People say, that the Choi family would cook porridge and share it with the entire village.
[Woman]
They seem to be the embodiment of noblesse oblige. I’m really impressed.
[Man]
I have another story about the Choi family. The last prominent descendant of the Choi clan was Choi Joon. During the Japanese colonial rule of Korea, Choi Joon funded the Provisional Government of Korea. Despite ruling Korea with an iron grip, the Japanese could not ignore the wealth and reputation of the Choi family that had stood the test of time for hundreds of years.After our country won its independence, Choi Joon donated his money to help educate talented individuals.Although they do not enjoy the immense wealth held before, the reputation of the family still lives on.
[Woman]
They truly are the quintessential example of noblesse oblige during the Joseon Dynasty.
[Man]
A few years ago, they restored their guest house which was lost to a fire in the 1970s.If you walk past the guest house, you’ll arrive at a storage building that is larger than a typical house.The Choi family used to be so rich, they could fill the entire storage unit with food. People say, the Choi clan donated all of it to the community.
[Woman]
I think the leadership the Choi clan showed us gave us an opportunity to appreciate the value of sharing and wisdom our ancestors believed in. I think it will be a good lesson for our children as well.
Gyeongju Travel Spot 5: Traditional Liquor of Gyeongju
[Man]
Do you like to drink?
[Woman]
I do.
[Man]
We came all the way to the mansion of the Choi clan. It would be a shame to leave without having some traditional local liquor, right? This is called Gayangju. Made with water sourced from the old mansion of the Choi family, they used to send Gayangju to the king as tribute.This traditional Gyeongju liquor is made with the roots of Chinese matrimony vine that are more than 100 years old. It has a subtle aroma and an amazingly smooth taste!
[Woman]
It seems smooth but honest! Just like the values the Choi family used to believe in.
[Man]
So, we took a tour around Gyochon Village in Gyeongju. What did you think?
[Woman]
I feel like I took a time machine back into the past. It was so fun. I learned about stories hidden behind your history. It was a truly meaningful trip.
The more you know, the more meaningful your trip can be. We’ll come back with more stories to make your trip across Gyeongju more exciting.
[Together]
History Tour of Korea! Thank you for joining us.
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